Quick Look: Lung King Heen, Hong Kong

When Lung King Heen earned three Michelin stars in 2009, it was the first restaurant in Hong Kong — and the first Chinese restaurant anywhere in the world — to win the prestigious French guide’s highest honor.

The gorgeous Cantonese restaurant overlooks Victoria Harbor from the fourth floor of the Four Seasons hotel. I dined at the restaurant shortly after it earned its Michelin stars, and I was blown away. But in the years since, Michelin’s credibility in Hong Kong has slipped dramatically as the guide added more local inspectors who began awarding way too many stars to restaurants that simply didn’t deserve them. So it was with a bit of trepidation that I returned to Lung King Heen last week, anxious to see whether the restaurant would live up to my previous experience. Continue reading

Best Sushi in Southern California (ahem, in America)

For anyone who loves sushi, as I do, we’ve got it good here. Nowhere else in the United States — not New York, not San Francisco, nowhere — comes even remotely close to the quality of sushi widely available in Southern California.

And while Los Angeles has always been the sushi capital of America, Orange County is right up there. To be clear: I’m not talking about sushi rolls, which are largely a California invention and can be enjoyable. I’m talking about authentic Japanese nigiri sushi and sashimi. I’m talking about omakase. Continue reading

OC Short Order: Garlic & Chives, Garden Grove

When Garlic & Chives opened in December at Garden Grove’s Mall of Fortune, I thought, “Great! This will be a nice alternative to Brodard when the line there is too long.”

And for a couple of weeks, it was. But apparently I wasn’t the only one thinking this. Or maybe the credit goes to Garlic & Chives itself, which has quickly become as popular (almost) as its legendary neighbor.  Continue reading

Hotel Review: Park Hyatt New York

Overview: The debut of the Park Hyatt New York in August was widely regarded as one of the most important hotel openings in America in years. Although based in Chicago, the top tier of the Hyatt Hotels portfolio has been slow to establish a presence in the United States. While the 34-unit luxury brand is well-known and highly regarded throughout Asia and Europe – with spectacular hotels in Tokyo, Shanghai, Seoul, Sydney, Istanbul, Milan, Paris and Vienna, among other destinations – Park Hyatt’s name recognition had been limited to only four hotels in the U.S.: in San Diego, Chicago, Washington, D.C., and Beaver Creek, Colo. This new 210-room hotel in the 90-story One57 skyscraper is being trumpeted as the brand’s new American flagship. Continue reading

Quick Review: The River Cafe, Brooklyn

The River Cafe, Brooklyn (photos by Brad A. Johnson)

One of New York’s most celebrated restaurants is back and better than ever.

I thought it could never be done. It was a sentiment shared by pretty much everyone after The River Café in Brooklyn took a devastating hit from Hurricane Sandy in 2012.

The restaurant opened in 1977 aboard a riverboat that was moored to a quaint coach house on the bank of the East River, just beneath the Brooklyn Bridge. With breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline, the restaurant radiated glamor and exclusivity. Over the years, its kitchen launched a succession of soon-to-be legendary chefs, including Charlie Palmer, David Burke, Larry Forgione and George Morrone.

But then came Sandy. The hurricane swept in like a wrecking ball and filled the restaurant with four feet of water and gunk. The wine cellar, one of the best in New York, was decimated. If The River Café was going to reopen, everything would have to be replaced: the tables and chairs, the oak bar, the floors, the grand piano, the interior walls, the wine, the kitchen.

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Short Order: Babette’s, Crystal Cove

Babette’s (photos by Brad A. Johnson)

Babette’s is beautiful. This sexy little spinoff of the East Hampton original opened last month at the Crystal Cove Shopping Center. The kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. It’s not a very big place, with only a dozen tables inside and maybe just as many outside on the olive-tree-lined patio. The patio is where you want to be.

The patio feels extra luxurious thanks to its plush indoor furniture. The music — soft rock from the 1970s, mostly — is perfectly calibrated so that it fades in and out as conversations crest and lull. Life feels so easy here. The bar is crowned with a breathtaking skylight, and unless you’re sitting at the bar, you would hardly notice it. It would be a shame to miss it. Continue reading

OC Review: Waterman’s Harbor, Dana Point

Waterman’s Harbor, Dana Point (photos by Leonard Ortiz, OC Register)

“Harold! Come look at this place,” yells a woman whose wind-sculpted hair and well-worn boat shoes suggest she’s just spent the day at sea.

She has just walked into Waterman’s Harbor, a new gastropub in Dana Point, where I’m perched at the bar eating oysters and enjoying a pink margarita that’s not nearly as girly as it sounds. The woman is calling toward her apparent husband, who lags 10 steps behind and is just now coming through the front door.

“Look at this place, Harold. Can you believe it?” she says, still using her sailing voice, which briefly overpowers a classic tune by The Eagles that’s playing on the stereo. “This is the nicest restaurant in the harbor.”

Harold looks around, suspiciously. “Those oysters look good” he says, pointing to my plate. Continue reading

Short Order: Wheat & Sons, Anaheim

photo by Brad A. JohnsonPorchetta at Wheat & Sons (photo by Brad A. Johnson)

If you’ve been to the Anaheim Packing House you undoubtedly have seen the ridiculously long queue at The Kroft sandwich shop on the lower level. Most diners in that line will order the porchetta sandwich. Their porchetta (rotisserie pork) is very good. But what most people don’t know is that there is an even better porchetta sandwich next door at Wheat and Sons Butcher. Continue reading

Viral Video: DiverXO, Madrid

Wow. This is such an awesome video from DiverXO restaurant in Madrid, which recently earned their third Michelin star. It begins with, “The next time you hear my voice, you’ll be on the floor scooping up bits of your brain.” And they are not kidding. Awesome video. Watch it. I can’t wait to eat here.

One Dish: keema pav at Adya, Anaheim

Keema pav at Adya (photo by Brad A Johnson)

Apparently there’s something in Indian cuisine called “pav,” and it’s a lot like a Sloppy Joe. In fact, it’s exactly like a Sloppy Joe, only better than any you’ve ever had.

At Adya, the quick-serve Indian restaurant inside the Anaheim Packing District, the pavs come in a variety of flavors, including one made with chicken and another fashioned entirely from vegetables. But the one that I am most excited to discover is the keema pav, which is made with ground lamb.  Continue reading

OC Review: Pueblo, Costa Mesa

“Pan con tomate,” says the waitress as she places a complimentary dish on the table.

I look at it suspiciously. It doesn’t look like pan con tomate, which is Spain’s most famous and simplest snack, after ham, of course. Pan con tomate, literally bread with tomato, in its most traditional sense is little more than a piece of toast upon which a clove of garlic and a raw tomato have been rubbed. Spanish loaves are generally rough-textured, so the toast acts like sandpaper for the garlic and tomato, which shred into a velvety mush atop the crusty bread.

But that’s not what the waitress has just presented. Continue reading

That giant slurping sound in OC? Here’s where it’s coming from.

Beef noodle soup at Tai Chi Cuisine (photo by Brad A Johnson)

It’s been three months since Din Tai Fung opened at South Coast Plaza, and the wait for a table can still stretch well beyond two hours, even on a Monday or Tuesday.

The Taiwanese chain is most famous for its Shanghai-style xiao long bao, aka soup dumplings, which are sometimes called juicy dumplings. Perhaps that has something to do with the sudden proliferation of dumpling restaurants. Super Juicy Dumplings debuted in Brea in October, and hanging in its window is a newspaper article about xiao long bao from Din Tai Fung. The article is meant to convey, I suppose, the popularity of this type of dumpling and, by extension, their own relevance.

Meanwhile, Tai Chi Cuisine recently opened in Irvine in the same shopping center as Wei Shian Noodles and 101 Noodle Express. The menu focuses on all kinds of Chinese noodles, including the shop’s own take on soup dumplings. Theirs involves a much thicker, chewier dough. And then there’s the Capital Noodle Bar, a new casual offshoot of Capital Seafood.

Here’s how everyone stacks up:

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