Exclusive: New Chef at Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

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Nopales with tomato and mozzarella at Rosewood San Miguel’s 1826 (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

I previously wrote about the outstanding cuisine at Rosewood San Miguel’s 1826 restaurant. Well, chef Carlos Hannon has left the hotel (for Rosewood’s Little Dix Bay in the Caribbean). The new chef in San Miguel is Victor Palma, who was previously the chef de cuisine at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, where he was intrumental in introducing that legendary resort’s new menus earlier this year. I got the exclusive sneak peak at Palma’s new menu at San Miguel’s 1826, due to be rolled out in the coming days. Here’s a quick look at what to expect. Continue reading

Enrique Olvera’s New Menu at Moxi, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

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Aguachiles at Moxi in San Miguel de Allende (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

Enrique Olvera is one of Mexico’s most important chefs. His restaurant Pujol, in Mexico City’s chic Polanco neighborhood, has done for fine dining in his country what Thomas Keller did for America or what Ferran Adria has for Spain. Pujol celebrated its 10th anniversary last year, and yet the chef and his wildly popular restaurant are still relatively unknown to most foodies in the United States. But that’s finally starting to change.

Within Mexico, Olvera is a already superstar. And like Keller, he is also very humble and soft-spoken. He cooks for passion, not for fame. When I met him in April, I asked, “It’s been 10 years, Enrique. You’ve been very successful. Why haven’t you opened another restaurant?”  And he looked me in the eyes and said, very self-assured: “One restaurant is all I need. It is all I want.” But he said it with a smirk on his face. At the time, I didn’t think any more of it. But little did I know at that moment, he was holding back a huge secret. Continue reading

Farm to Table in San Miguel de Allende

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Arugula and strawberries from Hacienda Purisima at Rosewood’s 1826 Restaurant

There’s an incredible farm-to-table culinary movement taking hold in San Miguel de Allende. The town’s best chefs have been racing to embrace the region’s local agricultural bounty: incredible goat cheeses, farm-fresh eggs, artisanal honeys and surprisingly great wines. There’s even a bewildering variety of locally roasted coffees. But the real treasure is the region’s organic produce. And one of the key players in the movement is Hacienda Purisima de Jalpa, an organic farm located 15 miles from San Miguel de Allende in the rural village of Jalpa (where local residents share a single, communal phone booth in the center of “town”). Continue reading