Critic's Notebook: Ria at The Elysian, Chicago
Octopus and scallops at Ria, Chicago (Brad A. Johnson)
Chef Danny Grant deserves a James Beard nomination this year, and if he doesn’t get it, dammit, I’m gonna cry foul. His cooking at Ria in Chicago (11 East Walton, 312-880-4400) is as polished and refined as I’ve ever come across from a 29-year-old chef. Hell, maybe even from anyone twice his age.




