Pit Stop: La Sauceda, Guanajuato Mexico

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Gorditas with chicken mole and potatoes at La Flor (Photos by Brad A. Johnson)

The road to San Miguel de Allende from Guanajuato (or the airport in Leon) passes through  what literally feels like the middle of nowhere in Mexico’s high desert. But just when you think this part of the world is completely barren and deserted, you’ll pass through a tiny hillside village called La Sauceda. Blink, and you’ll miss it. There’s no sign announcing the city limits or even the name of the town. But you’ll know you’re here when you see dozens of outdoor cafes lining the side of the highway, each advertising one or two specialties of the casa: “Tortas!” “Gorditas!” “Tamales!” “Tacos!” etc. Continue reading

Where to Eat in Guadalajara: High/Low

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A mariachi musician taking a lunch break at Mercado Benito Juarez in Guadalajara (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

You don’t hear much about it these days, but I just love Guadalajara. I think this is one of the most underrated cities in Mexico. Did you know that Guadalajara was the birthplace of mariachi music? (Yeah, neither did I, until recently.)

I travel to Mexico frequently, but I hadn’t thought much about Guadalajara lately. Hadn’t been there in seven or eight years. But on a recent tequila-tasting trip to Jalisco, I had a chance to spend a bit more time in Guadalajara—and now I can’t wait to go back. The dining scene here seems fantastic on both ends of the spectrum. Although I barely had time to scratch the surface, I did come away with two truly outstanding culinary experiences, one rather upscale and trendy, the other completely lowbrow and traditional. Continue reading

Photo of the Week: Morelia, Mexico

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Morelia, Mexico (Photo by Brad A Johnson)

I love this shot, captured just across the street from City Hall in Morelia, the capital city of the state of Michoacan. Morelia is such a romantic old city, and this is where much of Mexico’s best candies are made. There is an amazing hacienda hotel called Villa San Jose that sits atop the town’s largest hill, from which the views are absolutely incredible. Continue reading

Photo of the Week: Puebla, Mexico

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La Flor de Ahuatepec taqueria in Puebla, Mexico (photo by Brad A Johnson)

I snapped this shot at La Flor de Ahuatepec, an incredible barbecoa taco stand inside the Mercado el Carmen in Puebla, one of my favorite cities in Mexico (about an hour south of Mexico city). The dining counter at La Flor is lined with an amazing selection of freshly made salsas and brightly colored Mexican soda bottles. While I was dining here, a couple of guys walked through carrying an entire side of beef (click through to see that photo). Just another day at the market. Continue reading

The Complicated Return of Chilean Sea Bass

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Chilean sea bass at Chef Morimoto’s Wasabi in Mumbai (photo by Brad A Johnson) 

I’ve fallen off the wagon, and there’s no turning back. For nearly 10 years, I’ve abstained from eating Chilean sea bass. But I recently started up again. It’s so damn delicious! I’d forgotten how uniquely buttery this fish can be. There’s simply nothing else quite like it.

Back in 2002, more than 100 restaurants in Los Angeles banded together and stopped serving Chilean sea bass. Chefs across the country followed suit. Most top chefs in L.A. still won’t touch it. However, the tide seems to be turning. I’ve suddenly been spotting it again on menus around the world. Continue reading

Is this Mexico’s Best Mole Poblano Recipe?

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Mole poblano at Mesones Sacristia in Puebla, Mexico (photo by Brad A. Johnson)

I’ve taken dozens of cooking classes throughout the years in towns across Mexico. And among my favorites were two classes I encountered just last month, days apart. The first was in the town of Puebla at Mesones Sacristía, a quirky boutique hotel and restaurant where chef Alonzo Hernández showed me how to make mole poblano the way his grandmother taught him to make it. That’s what this post is about. (The second cooking class was in Punta Mita at the luxurious Four Seasons resort, where chefs Richard Sandoval and Philippe Piel sparked up the beachside grill for fresh octopus that had been pulled from the sea earlier that day by local fishermen. But that’s a story and recipe for a future post, coming soon.) Continue reading

Photo of the Week: Four Seasons Punta Mita Yacht

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Four Seasons Punta Mita yacht (Photo by Brad A Johnson)

This was one of my favorite sunsets so far this year. I snapped this shot aboard the private yacht of the Four Seasons Punta Mita in Mexico’s Banderas Bay, just north of Puerta Vallarta. Way too much tequila was consumed that day, but all in all it was a fairly perfect outing. I mean, just look at that view. Now imagine yourself barefoot. On a private yacht. With tequila, guacamole and tuna ceviche. Continue reading

Review: Grand Velas, Playa del Carmen, Mexico

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The adults-only pool at Grand Velas Riviera Maya, Mexico (photos by Brad A. Johnson)

Grand Velas Riviera Maya is one of the finest resorts in North America—and for the price (not exactly cheap), it’s an astonishing bargain. I’ve made this declaration before, yet my enthusiasm is frequently met with skepticism. “But Brad,” the naysayers counter, “Isn’t Grand Velas one of those all-inclusive megaresorts? How could it possibly compete with, say, the Four Seasons in Punta Mita or Las Ventanas al Paraiso in Los Cabos?” 

Right. Good question. Those are indeed incredible, exclusive resorts with independent vibes and polished service, whereas Mexico’s all-inclusives are typically mass-market, inauthentic, herd-minded tourist traps with awful food and nonexistent service. So isn’t comparing Grand Velas with the likes of Four Seasons and Rosewood a case of apples and oranges? Um, no. Not at all—because Grand Velas is different. Way different. Grand Velas is a game-changer for the all-inclusive concept.  Continue reading

What I’m Reading This Week: Cabanas in Tulum, Future Trains, a Faster Plane, and Paris Bakeries!

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Papaya Playa, Tulum, Mexico (Design Hotels)

  1. Pop-up restaurants are so last year. Up now: pop-up hotels! (Terminal U)
  2. What really happened on Air France flight 447. (Popular Mechanics)
  3. Changing trains at 200 mph without even slowing down? (Been Seen)
  4. Hold on! This new plane will fly 4x faster than the Concorde! (Terminal U) Continue reading

Top 10 Mexican Restaurants in Playa del Carmen

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Coral Grill at Viceroy Riviera Maya (Brad A. Johnson)

Truly great Mexican food is oddly difficult to find in Playa del Carmen, the hub of Mexico’s beautiful Riviera Maya. You can find a great (or at least very good) Italian restaurant on nearly every corner and inside most hotels (a story on that coming soon). But Mexican? The good stuff’s here, but the best places aren’t so obvious. These are the Top 10. Continue reading

Photo Essay: Mayakoba Earns Top Global Awards for Ecotourism and Development

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Fairmont Mayakoba (Brad A. Johnson)

Mayakoba Resort near Playa del Carmen in Mexico’s Riviera Maya has just won two of the world’s most prestigious honors for its commitment to sustainability and responsible tourism.  Continue reading

Exclusive First Look: The Viceroy Riviera Maya Unveils New Look, New Restaurant, New Villas

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A new beachfront villa at The Viceroy Riviera Maya (Brad A. Johnson)

The Viceroy resort (formerly called The Tides) near Playa del Carmen, Mexico has just unveiled its brand new beach villas and a fresh new look throughout the property. The revamp also include a new beachfront restaurant and new menus. (The resort is owned by the Viceroy Hotels group, which recently sold the original Tides in Miami, so makes sense that the group would want to reposition the brand.)

Continue reading