Sous chef Alex Ageneau and chef de cuisine David Féau (Photo by Peden + Munk)

First impressions are critical. So when the first morsel to arrive is an amuse-bouche of calf liver, I suspect this could go either way. But I’m in luck. It’s a tiny cube of liver, caramelized and glistening, speared onto a bamboo pick with a miniature grape. I slide both onto my tongue and gently bite down. They burst with equal intensity. The mineral tang of liver. The sweet, purple juiciness of grape. I reach for my Champagne, and when I take a sip, the flavors snap all over again. Exotic. Familiar. Brilliant. Continue reading →